No Risk, No Gain

Moving from England to Dubai was not an easy decision but once my husband and I made up our minds we were excited. Dubai in the 1970s was part of a confederation called the Trucial States. I found out as much as I could about the region. It was fascinating to read about the sheikdoms, the expatriate communities, and the rapid development in the area. The “shamal” season, when the northwesterly winds stir up huge clouds of sand and dust. It was a little scary to read about people getting lost in the sandstorms.

I knew there were hospitals in Dubai and schools for children of expatriate families. Women could drive in Dubai which meant a little independence for me in case my husband who was a doctor got busy at the hospital. At age 24 this seemed plenty to me to make our move to a new country and set up a new home. “No risk, no gain,” as my husband kept repeating.

We shopped for items we felt our children would miss in Dubai. Books were at the top of our list. We bought encyclopedias, atlases, books on history and geography, and of course lots of children’s storybooks. We stocked up on clothes and toys, at least a year’s supply. Perhaps my children were a little young for some of the books we bought. The “Reader’s Digest Great World Atlas,” is still in perfect condition. The names of some countries have changed and new countries are on the map. The atlas includes a piece of history now!

My husband, being more practical, had made arrangements for our furniture, rugs, and crockery to be stored for a year in case things didn’t work out and we had to return to England. He needn’t have worried, we went on to stay in Dubai for the next twenty years.

The Dubai Creek

There was a natural beauty in the landscape which is hard to describe. The Dubai Creek snakes through the city dividing it into two halves, with Deira on one side and Bur Dubai on the other. A morning walk along the creek brought you right beside beautiful dhows (wooden boats) anchored close by. Workers loading and unloading tons of crates. These grand wooden boats had traveled between Dubai and faraway ports in Iran, Pakistan, and India for years carrying goods to and fro.

On a workday, one could see commuters rushing to get on the already overcrowded “abras” (ferry boats), afraid they would be late for work. This was the cheapest though not the safest way to go to the other side of town. The Al Maktoum Bridge connecting Deira with Bur Dubai was built in 1963, but people continued to use the ferries. Taxis cost more.

The Dhow

Dubai would come alive in the evenings as families came out from their homes and apartments to enjoy the city’s parks and restaurants. It’s cosmopolitan community and informality somehow put me at ease.

A few minutes’ drive from the city and you would find yourself in the desert. Miles of golden sand. Young Dubaians, ever ready for a new adventure would ride their Land Rovers over the sand dunes. People like us who were there just to watch them would have to scramble to safety when a Land Rover suddenly appeared on the top of a dune.

It was an exceptionally unique time to be in Dubai. Top class hospitals, hotels, schools, malls were planned and completed within a short time. The construction of the Dubai World Trade Center began in 1975 and was completed in 1979, at thirty-nine stories high it was Dubai’s first skyscraper! Dubai World Trade Center was inaugurated by Queen Elizabeth. I never imagined after living in England where all I saw of the queen was on the news channels, I would see her in real life in Dubai. My husband and I were invited to the inauguration ceremony and could see the queen very closely from an indoor balcony.

Dubai World Trade Center

It was a privilege to be in Dubai at these momentous times and see the developments firsthand. There was constant talk at parties and get-togethers about the changes taking place in the country. I remember at a hospital function the talk turned to the new national anthem. One of our colleagues had heard a recording and he was sure bagpipes were used in the anthem, being Scottish he was truly excited.

When the British-Trucial Sheikhdoms treaty expired on December 1, 1971, the Trucial States became fully independent from Britain. Six emirates of Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Sharjah, and Umm Al Quwain came together to form the UAE and became independent on December 2, 1971. Ras Al Khaimah joined later in February 1972. There were celebrations both private and official to mark Independence Day throughout the UAE. Almost a year had passed since our arrival from England.

I had heard a lot about the dynamic personality of Sheikh Rashid but so far had not seen him. Sheikh Rashid was loved and highly respected by all. Many expatriates who had the honor to meet him talked about his electrifying presence.

My husband and I were invited to an official function along with other doctors and their wives. I remember the event so clearly, all the guests were seated at long tables, as we chatted and waited. There was an air of anticipation, suddenly the hall seemed energized, Sheikh Rashid had arrived. We saw him enter the hall, he moved in quick, brisk, steps with a group of people moving along with him. He moved towards the main table, everyone stood up in respect and to catch a glimpse of His Highness. In his white “thawb” long white shirt and “bisht” dark flowing robe he quickly reached his seat, a few words of welcome were said and the dinner started. The food was really good, I noticed the conversation at our table had become low and respectful.

All of a sudden the guests stood up, Sheikh Rashid was leaving! He left as quickly as he arrived. It was only then our dinner began. This was my first look at the founder and architect of modern Dubai. My husband of course met Sheikh Rashid and other royal family members as their eye doctor on many occasions throughout our twenty years in Dubai. The force behind this tremendous and well-planned growth was His Highness Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum. Sheikh Rashid ruled the Emirate of Dubai for 32 years, until his death in October 1990.