Numaish: Hyderabad's Iconic Exhibition

It is January 1, the date when the Numaish, Hyderabad’s iconic exhibition begins. For almost a month and a half, the Numaish grounds turn into a gigantic open-air mall. Each year vendors from all over India and some from overseas come to Hyderabad to sell their goods. And each day Hyderabadis brave the traffic to reach the exhibition grounds by car, by taxi, by bus, and by rickshaw.

The first Numaish was inaugurated in 1938 by the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osman Ali Khan. It was held at the Public Gardens and had about 50 stalls. The Numaish has now expanded into over 2,000 stalls with an expansive 23-acre venue near the Nampally Train Station. Since 1938 the Numaish has been held every year except in 1947 and 1948 due to the turmoil after India’s independence.

As a child, I went to the Numaish with my parents and my brother and sister. The main attraction for me then was a ride on the merry-go-round and having cotton candy.

Later on, I would go to the Numaish with my friends on Ladies Day. Without cellphones, we had to set a time and place where we would meet. Usually, it was at the Main Gate. In case one of us was late we had a second meeting spot near the Zinda Tilismath (a brand of herbal medicines) stall with its easily recognizable tower. In Hyderabad, where many families know each other, it was quite possible to locate friends despite the crowds.

It was not only the bargains that attracted Hyderabadis to the Numaish but the bright atmosphere and charm surrounding the event. You came across friends and acquaintances you hadn’t seen for months. Bright lights everywhere, music, happy faces, and stalls filled with goods.

Vendors stand outside their stalls inviting shoppers to come in. There is entertainment too. Carnival rides, the train that takes you through the entire grounds, and cultural programs. A friendly atmosphere. Groups of women with shopping bags and their kids tagging along wanting to go on the rides. But now and then an announcement for a child who is lost and taken to one of the security stations.

Families living far from Hyderabad often plan their trips home around the time of the exhibition. For those of us who have been away for a long time, there is still nostalgia surrounding the Numaish.

Colorful bangles: A popular item at the Numaish

As my friends and I make our way past the stalls we get the aroma of delicious food wafting through the air. We move with ease among the crowds since it is Ladies Day. Skipping stalls selling home goods, linen, and crockery, we go straight for the shoes, jewelry, bangles, and handicrafts.

There are beautiful shawls from Kashmir made from fine pashmina wool. Kashmiri shawls are known for their distinctive weave, their “buta”, or paisley motif. Sometimes my mother and aunts would come just to buy Kashmiri shawls. Chikankari or chikan embroidered kurtas from Lucknow, Hyderabadi bangles, colorful mojris (shoes) and dupattas from Jaipur are on our shopping list. It is difficult to decide what to buy. My friends and I end up buying almost identical items.

I am sure many Hyderabadis have a special memory of the Numaish. I was with my friends once when we saw women running towards the train stop. We found out there was a popular Bollywood star on the train. I had always wanted to meet or at least see a Bollywood celebrity on my visits to Mumbai (it was called Bombay then). I never imagined I would meet one at the Numaish in Hyderabad.

With most of our shopping done we head straight to the food stalls. All that delicious mouth-watering food we had been craving is in front of us. The words of caution from our parents about food poisoning and cleanliness vanish into thin air. We delve into bowls of hot spicy chaat, dahi baray, and haleem. From there we make our way to the ice creams, desserts, and cool drinks stalls. We still have some last-minute shopping to do.

Before we know it loudspeakers start blaring, informing the ladies it is closing time. We gather our shopping bags and head to the gates. It is the end of another Numaish evening.

Today we got news this mega event has been deferred till January 31, due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Hyderabad will be ushering in the new year without its renowned Numaish.